HOW SWEET IT IS...AND HOW DISTURBING IS THAT! - Sweet and savory combinations in food are finding their way into classic cuisine, and that may not be a good thing

摘要

Forget church and state. When I was learning to enjoy fine cuisine, there was one pair of concepts I really thought would never merge: the flavors of savory and sweet in France. They have insisted against it for ages. Think about it. Once upon a time,French chefs woke up in the morning and, as if by mass instinct, produced their savory stocks, the base of their savory sauces; they poached fish, drawing only on their cream-and-butter wizardry for embellishment; they roasted their meats, simply, relying on herbs, onions and olive oil to give support.