Homegrown Cuisines or Naturalized Cuisines? The History of Food in Hawaii and Hawaii's Place in Food History

摘要

When the author arrived in Hawaii in the mid-1980s, the homegrown model of culinary evolution was widely, if tacitly, accepted. It assumes that cuisines develop in place, evolving from simple peasant cooking of local ingredients to refined high cuisine in cities. Hawaii, where successive waves of migrants had introduced and naturalized cuisines from distant places, was a striking exception to the model. The alternative naturalized model provided the key to writing a global food history, which, in turn, shed new light on Hawaii's place in food history.