LIKE THE WELL-WORN HOLES in my favorite belt, the variable capacity tank is a special tank that allows winemakers to cinch it up to fit the amount of wine in the tank. For all intents and purposes, a variable capacity tank looks like a freshly openedcan of beets. When in use, the can's lid is lowered into the tank to float on the surface of the wine like a lily pad. Wine can be sealed without exposure to light or air because the vat's lid sits at any desired height within the tank, giving the impression the tank is always full.
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