Wave transformation across a macrotidal shore platform under low to moderate energy conditions

机译：在低至中等能量条件下的麦田岸平台上的波转换

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Abstract >We investigate how waves are transformed across a shore platform as this is a central question in rock coast geomorphology. We present results from deployment of three pressure transducers over four days, across a sloping, wide (~200?m) cliff‐backed shore platform in a macrotidal setting, in South Wales, United Kingdom. Cross‐shore variations in wave heights were evident under the predominantly low to moderate (significant wave height??1.4?m) energy conditions measured. At the outer transducer 50?m from the seaward edge of the platform (163?m from the cliff) high tide water depths were 8+ m meaning that waves crossed the shore platform without breaking. At the mid‐platform position water depth was 5?m. Water depth at the inner transducer (6?m from the cliff platform junction) at high tide was 1.4?m. This shallow water depth forced wave breaking, thereby limiting wave heights on the inner platform. Maximum wave height at the middle and inner transducers were 2.41 and 2.39?m, respectively, and significant wave height 1.35?m and 1.34?m, respectively. Inner platform high tide wave heights were generally larger where energy was up to 335% greater than near the seaward edge where waves were smaller. Infragravity energy was less than 13% of the total energy spectra with energy in the swell, wind and capillary frequencies accounting for 87% of the total energy. Wave transformation is thus spatially variable and is strongly modulated by platform elevation and the tidal range. While shore platforms in microtidal environments have been shown to be highly dissipative, in this macro‐tidal setting up to 90% of the offshore wave energy reached the landward cliff at high tide, so that the shore platform cliff is much more reflective. Copyright ? 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. </abstract> </span> <span class="z_kbtn z_kbtnclass hoverxs" style="display: none;">展开▼</span> </div> <div class="translation abstracttxt"> <span class="zhankaihshouqi fivelineshidden" id="abstract"> <span>机译：</span><Abstract XMLNS =“http://www.wiley.com/namespaces/wiley”type =“main”xml：lang =“en”> <title type =“main”>抽象</ title> >我们调查如何在岸上平台转换波浪，因为这是岩石海岸地貌的核心问题。我们展示了在英国南威尔士州南威尔士州的斜坡宽阔（〜200米）的悬崖支持的岸平台上的三天内部的三天内部压力传感器的结果。波浪高度的交叉岸边变化在主要低至中等（显着的波高α＆≤1.4μm）能量条件下是显而易见的。在外部换能器50？M来自平台的海边（距离悬崖的163Ωm）高潮水深是8+米，意思是波在没有破裂的情况下波越过岸平台。在平台中间位置水深是5？m。在高潮中，内部换能器（悬崖平台交界处的6Ωm）的水深为1.4μm。这种浅水深度强制波浪断开，从而限制了内部平台上的波浪高度。中间换能器的最大波高度分别为2.41和2.39Ωm，分别显着波高1.35？m和1.34Ωm。内部平台高潮波高度通常比在波浪较小的海边缘附近的高达335％的335％。 IntaGravity Energy占总能谱的13％，在膨胀中的能量，风和毛细管频率占总能源的87％。因此，波形变换是空间可变的，并且通过平台高度和潮汐范围强烈调制。虽然微观环境中的岸平台被证明是高度耗散的，但在这种宏观潮汐设置中，高达90％的海上波浪能量在高潮中达到着陆悬崖，因此岸平台悬崖更为反感。版权？ 2017年John Wiley＆amp; SONS，LTD。</ p> </ abstract> </span> <span class="z_kbtn z_kbtnclass hoverxs" style="display: none;">展开▼</span> </div> </div> <div class="record"> <h2 class="all_title" id="enpatent33" >著录项</h2> <ul> <li> <span class="lefttit">来源</span> <div style="width: 86%;vertical-align: text-top;display: inline-block;"> <a href='/journal-foreign-22319/'>《Earth Surface Processes and Landforms: The journal of the British Geomorphological Research Group》</a> <b style="margin: 0 2px;">|</b><span>2018年第1期</span><b style="margin: 0 2px;">|</b><span>共14页</span> </div> </li> <li> <div class="author"> <span class="lefttit">作者</span> <p id="fAuthorthree" class="threelineshidden zhankaihshouqi"> <a href="/search.html?doctypes=4_5_6_1-0_4-0_1_2_3_7_9&sertext=Stephenson Wayne J.&option=202" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Stephenson Wayne J.;</a> <a href="/search.html?doctypes=4_5_6_1-0_4-0_1_2_3_7_9&sertext=Naylor Larissa A.&option=202" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Naylor Larissa A.;</a> <a href="/search.html?doctypes=4_5_6_1-0_4-0_1_2_3_7_9&sertext=Smith Helen&option=202" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Smith Helen;</a> <a href="/search.html?doctypes=4_5_6_1-0_4-0_1_2_3_7_9&sertext=Chen Bin&option=202" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Chen Bin;</a> <a href="/search.html?doctypes=4_5_6_1-0_4-0_1_2_3_7_9&sertext=Brayne Ralph P.&option=202" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Brayne Ralph P.;</a> </p> <span class="z_kbtnclass z_kbtnclassall hoverxs" id="zkzz" style="display: none;">展开▼</span> </div> </li> <li> <div style="display: flex;"> <span class="lefttit">作者单位</span> <div style="position: relative;margin-left: 3px;max-width: 639px;"> <div class="threelineshidden zhankaihshouqi" id="fOrgthree"> <p>Department of GeographyUniversity of OtagoDunedin New Zealand;</p> <p>School of Geographical and Earth Sciences College of Science and EngineeringUniversity of GlasgowGlasgow UK;</p> <p>College of Engineering Mathematics and Physical Sciences College of Life and Environmental SciencesUniversity of ExeterPenryn Cornwall UK;</p> <p>School of Geographical SciencesGuangzhou UniversityGuangzhou China;</p> <p>CefasLowestoft 0HT UK;</p> </div> <span class="z_kbtnclass z_kbtnclassall hoverxs" id="zhdw" style="display: none;">展开▼</span> </div> </div> </li> <li > <span class="lefttit">收录信息</span> <span style="width: 86%;vertical-align: text-top;display: inline-block;"></span> </li> <li> <span class="lefttit">原文格式</span> <span>PDF</span> </li> <li> <span class="lefttit">正文语种</span> <span>eng</span> </li> <li> <span class="lefttit">中图分类</span> <span><a href="https://www.zhangqiaokeyan.com/clc/163.html" title="地球物理学">地球物理学;</a></span> </li> <li class="antistop"> <span class="lefttit">关键词</span> <p style="width: 86%;vertical-align: text-top;"> <a style="color: #3E7FEB;" href="/search.html?doctypes=4_5_6_1-0_4-0_1_2_3_7_9&sertext=shore platform&option=203" rel="nofollow">shore platform;</a> <a style="color: #3E7FEB;" href="/search.html?doctypes=4_5_6_1-0_4-0_1_2_3_7_9&sertext=wave energy&option=203" rel="nofollow">wave energy;</a> <a style="color: #3E7FEB;" href="/search.html?doctypes=4_5_6_1-0_4-0_1_2_3_7_9&sertext=wave transformation&option=203" rel="nofollow">wave transformation;</a> <a style="color: #3E7FEB;" href="/search.html?doctypes=4_5_6_1-0_4-0_1_2_3_7_9&sertext=infragravity&option=203" rel="nofollow">infragravity;</a> <a style="color: #3E7FEB;" href="/search.html?doctypes=4_5_6_1-0_4-0_1_2_3_7_9&sertext=morphodynamics&option=203" rel="nofollow">morphodynamics;</a> </p> <div class="translation"> 机译：岸上平台;波能量;波转换;intravavity;形态学性; 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href="/patent-detail/06120200641511.html">能量波的能量分布转换装置</a> <b>[P]</b> . <span> 中国专利： CN2643586Y </span> <span> . 2004.09.22</span> </div> </li> <li> <div> <b>2. </b><a class="enjiyixqcontent" href="/patent-detail/06120113937046.html">一种低载波比条件下调制波与载波相位校正方法</a> <b>[P]</b> . <span> 中国专利： CN114024482A </span> <span> . 2022-02-08</span> </div> </li> <li> <div> <b>3. </b><a class="enjiyixqcontent" href="/patent-detail/06130403066784.html">a kinetic energy dissipation of flow energy dissipation pool water flow (options), a device for дифференцирования speed of liquid flow on the plane.гаситель energy flow differential, a dissipation of kinetic energy of fluid differential, the way to protect rivers from the shores of the sea of водосбросах bleeding, bleeding in the coastal zonedevice for the protection of the seas from bleeding, a намыва seas on the energy of the sea waves in the coastal zonethe device намыва flood seas on the energy of sea waves in the coastal zone</a> <b>[P]</b> . <span> 外国专利：  RU2018137093A3 </span> <span> . 2019-08-27</span> </div> <p class="zwjiyix translation" style="max-width: initial;height: auto;word-break: break-all;white-space: initial;text-overflow: initial;overflow: initial;"> <span>机译：流动耗能池的水流的动能耗散（选件），一种用于在平面上对液体流动进行дифференцирования速度的装置。出血海，沿海带流血保护海洋免受流失的设备，沿海带海浪的能量使海域泛滥，沿海带海浪的能量使海域泛滥的设备 </span> </p> </li> <li> <div> <b>4. </b><a class="enjiyixqcontent" href="/patent-detail/06130475043191.html">Wave energy conversion unit - has floating platform which rocks under force of waves near shore to generate energy using generator or air compressor</a> <b>[P]</b> . <span> 外国专利：  FR2467998B1 </span> <span> . 1983-04-29</span> </div> <p class="zwjiyix translation" style="max-width: initial;height: auto;word-break: break-all;white-space: initial;text-overflow: initial;overflow: initial;"> <span>机译：波浪能转换单元-具有浮动平台，该平台可在海岸附近的波浪作用下摇动以使用发电机或空气压缩机产生能量 </span> </p> </li> <li> <div> <b>5. </b><a class="enjiyixqcontent" href="/patent-detail/06130477404993.html">Wave energy conversion unit - has floating platform which rocks under force of waves near shore to generate energy using generator or air compressor</a> <b>[P]</b> . <span> 外国专利：  FR2467998A1 </span> <span> . 1981-04-30</span> </div> <p class="zwjiyix translation" style="max-width: initial;height: auto;word-break: break-all;white-space: initial;text-overflow: initial;overflow: initial;"> <span>机译：波浪能转换单元-具有浮动平台，该平台可在海岸附近的波浪作用下摇动以使用发电机或空气压缩机产生能量 </span> </p> </li> </ul> </div> </div> </div> <div class="theme cardcommon" style="overflow: auto;display:none"> <h3 class="all_title" id="enpatent55">相关主题</h3> <ul id="subject"> </ul> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="right rightcon"> <div class="details_img cardcommon clearfix" style="margin-bottom: 10px;display:none;" > </div> </div> </div> <div id="thesis_get_original1" class="downloadBth" style="bottom: 19px;z-index: 999;" onclick="ywcd('0704023139172','4',7,2,1,'',this,24)" class="delivery" 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