On a hot afternoon in July, a chanting, dancing, dramming crowd has formed on the main road that crosses the village, half an hour's drive north of the border with Benin. The villagers have begun the rain dance. They want to bring on the monsoon that drenches the earth every year from June to August; it's now several weeks late. The millet crop needs 3 months to ripen, and time is running out for planting the seed.
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