The warp crossings in bead leno are accomplished by threading pairs of warp ends onto beads, so that when one end or the other of the pair is raised, it causes them to rise either to the right or left of a "ground" warp end that stays unraised. Alternating these two sheds (beaded ends to the right or to the left of the ground end) creates crossed warp ends between weft picks. In doup leno, the warp crossings are made with a different approach. Each ground warp end is threaded through a heddle on a shaft at the rear of the loom called the "ground shaft." The warp end that will rise on either side of that ground warp end is threaded through a heddle on a different shaft near the rear of the loom called the "back shaft." In addition, this back-shaft end is also brought to the front of the loom, where it's threaded through a combination of two more shafts called the "doup shaft" and the "standard shaft." These two sheds also alternate. The first shed is formed by raising the back shaft and the doup shaft, allowing the moving end to rise in its normal position. The second shed is formed by raising the combination of doup plus standard shafts, raising the moving end on the other side of the ground-warp end.
展开▼
