BOUSSINESQ MODELLING OF BREAKING WAVES: DESCRIPTION OF TURBULENCE

摘要

We propose a flexible and accurate description of wave breaking turbulence for use in a fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model. Turbulent stresses are handled by means of the Boussinesq hypothesis and the eddy viscosity is assumed to vary over the water depth according to different laws. The model performances are evaluated by means of experimental data of regular waves breaking over a slope. The influence of the vertical structure of turbulence is analyzed by means of four different vertical profiles of eddy viscosity; differences in terms of hydrodynamic features are also discussed. Two of the four selected profiles (the uniform one and that with uniform eddy viscosity over the top half of the water column which linearly decreases to zero over the lower half) give better overall performances when compared with experimental velocity data.