A HYBRID MODELLING APPROACH TO COASTAL MORPHOLOGY

摘要

Coastline evolution is often modelled adopting single line theory, I.e. the active part of the cross-shore profiles moves back and forth with erosion and accretion without a change in the profile shape. The advantage of these single line models is that they are easy to use, run fast and their results are easy to interpret. However, because of the limitations of singleline theory, these models are less suited to simulate the local coastline evolution around engineering constructions like breakwaters accurately. To calculate the effect of constructions on nearshore wave climate and sediment transport (e.g. the bypass function of breakwaters), local 2D models on hydrodynamics and wave propagation are often required. The approach adopted in the present study is to couple 1D and 2D models to determine the bypass rate of breakwaters more accurately.