CHARACTERISTICS OF RIP CURRENT ON LARGE CUSPS

摘要

At Uradome Beach, Tottori, Japan, various kinds of rip current were observed. Among them, the characteristics of rip current generated from the concave portion of cusp are investigated with relation to the cusp profile and incident wave condition based on numerical simulations. It is found that the maximum rip current velocity depends on the ratio of amplitude η and wavelength λ of cusp, relative length of incident wavelength L_o and λ and surf similarity parameter ξ When incident waves break within the region with the influence of cuspate shoreline, rip current velocity increased with increase in the wave height. When the waves break in the deeper region without the influence of cuspate shoreline, the velocity of rip current depends on η/λ, L_o/λ and ξ.