Wave Attenuation and Wave Set-Up on a Coastal Reef

摘要

This study deals with the breaking of waves on coastal reefs, with special emphasis on energy dissipation (wave height attenuation), wave spectrum modification and characteristics of wave set-up. It has an engineering perspective; its main objective is to provide the practicing engineer with much needed information on the design conditions for coastal structures. The study consists of a review of existing literature, further development of theoretical concepts, a field study and a hydraulic model study. After a short description of the hydrodynamic processes associated with waves breaking on a reef and the goals and scope of the investigation, the individual chapters deal with: some relevant aspects of nonlinear waves; the significance part bottom friction plays in wave dissipation over a shallow reef; the various aspects of energy dissipation in breaking waves; aspects of wave set-up; effects of a modulating wave train on the wave set-up on the reef; aspects of the wave spectrum and characteristics of the spectrum for various water depths.