A Formosan muntjac dashed past with a yellow-throated marten in hot pursuit; two Formosan black bears were noisily arguing on the ridge above, while a gem-faced civet loitered nearby, hoping for our leftovers. We were camping in forested mountains, 50km from any road. Our nights were filled with the sounds of flying squirrels and serow goat antelopes - a far cry from the cacophony of cars and karaoke in the lowlands beneath.
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