Weave Structure Development to Improve the Current Design Capability for Double Cloth Fabrication via Digital Jacquard Weaving

摘要

This study aims to improve the current design capability for double cloth fabrication by exploring weave structures via digital Jacquard weaving. New double cloth weave structures are developed as follows. First, a basic plain weave structure is employed to explore a traditional double cloth weaving technique via digital Jacquard weaving. The core principle lies in a weave structure design that interweaves several sets of warps and wefts into separate layers. Second, based on the plain weave experiment result, a feasible weave structure for double cloth fabrication is expanded to a sateen to investigate its possibility to realize complex pictorial images on both sides of a fabric. As a sateen weave can generate varied lengths of thread floats in a stable condition, the weave structure is not only capable of generating delicate details of an image, but it also maintains an appropriate structural balance in production. Therefore, the basic form is developed into a shaded weave structure series to align with complex images in a double cloth format. To verify the relevance of the newly developed weave structures, it is essential to produce an actual Jacquard sample. This study explains the details of double cloth weave structure experiments necessary to improve the design capability via digital Jacquard weaving.