Return of the native

摘要

Our boat moves over clear green water, gliding towards the massive nest. Nearby a common seal dozes on a rock exposed by the low tide, while off to our stern another lifts its head above the water. It's June and I'm on the Lady Ellen, a small boat piloted by ferryman Kevin Jer O'Sullivan. We're motoring over Glengarriff Harbour, a sheltered bay dotted with wooded islands and surrounded by old oak forests, in County Cork in the south-west of Ireland.