Internal Lipid Wool Structure Modification Due to a Nonionic Auxiliary Used in Dyeing at Low Temperatures

摘要

An analytical and microscopical study of wool fibers differently treated with a non-ionic dye auxiliary product such as Baylan NT elucidates the action mechanism of this compound in low temperature dyeing of wool. Lipids are extracted from wool samples previously treated with Baylan NT, and the compounds are analyzed quantitatively with thin layer chromatography coupled to a flame ionization detection system. Previous solubilization of free fatty acids by the Baylan treatment is considered to be the main cause of some changes in the lipid morphological structure, resulting in the release of ceramides in subsequent solvent extraction. These are found in a significantly higher amount in the extract of the wool treated with the auxiliary compound. Furthermore, the microscopical study shows higher penetration of the fluorescent dye in wool fibers treated with the auxiliary compound, thereby confirming the importance of cell membrane complex modification in the improving the dyeing characteristics of wool and permitting dyeing at low temperatures.