Perched on the stony slopes above Luederitz Bay, the well-kept German Imperial and Art Nouveau buildings are a startling sight on the Namib Desert coast. With their white curtains blowing from upstairs windows, they looked very good to me and my field partner, paleontologist Roger Hamilton, of the Natural History Museum in London, as we parked our dusty Land Rover. During three weeks of fossil hunting in 1975, we had not seen another person or even an inhabited building.
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