In Turkey's rugged south-east, giant portraits of Ataturk stare down from the mountains at rebellious Kurds. In the Kan-dil mountains, where the Iraqi and Iranian borders meet, images of Abdullah Ocalan, the imprisoned leader of the Kurdistan Workers' Party (pkk), loom over land controlled by the rebels. The pkk has been ensconced here for over two decades. And Turkey's army, nato's second-biggest, has been trying to dislodge it ever since.
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