THE CAPITAL of Visigothic Spain and later of Castile, famous for its mudejar churches and El Greco paintings, the medieval city of Toledo has succumbed to mass tourism. But the surrounding province is a representative slice of modern Spain, from dormitory exurbs of Madrid to struggling industrial towns along the Tagus valley and rolling hills of vineyards and olive groves. It is also the kind of place where Spain's general election on November 10th—the fourth in as many years—will be decided.
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