在山羊绒纤维的染色过程中,温度与时间是两项重要的工艺参数,探讨不同染色温度、保温时间对染色后色绒断裂强力、断裂伸长率和卷曲率的影响,结果表明:总体来看,随染色温度上升或染色时间延长,断裂强力、断裂伸长率和卷曲率都呈下降趋势.其中,断裂强力和断裂伸长率受染色时间影响小,但随温度升高均明显降低,85℃以上时,下降幅度明显增大；在染色时间为15 min和30 min时,卷曲率随温度上升至70℃以上受温度影响较小并逐步趋于平衡,但染色时间为45 min和60 min时,卷曲率曲线在65℃和90℃处出现明显下降的折点.%Temperature and time are two important process parameters for cashmere fiber dyeing. The effects of different dyeing temperature and the holding time on the breaking strength, breaking elongation rate and crimp rate of dyed cashmere were discussed. The results showed that, on the whole, the breaking strength, breaking elongation rate and crimp rate decreased with the dyeing temperature or dyeing time increased. The breaking strength and elongation were little affected by dyeing time, but obviously decreased with temperature increasing, up to 85 °C, the decreasing extent was abruptly increased. At 15 min and 30 min of dyeing time, with the temperature rising to 70 °C or more, crimp rate was little affected by temperature and gradually became balanced. However, at 45 min and 60 min of dyeing time, the curly curve appeared significant dropping turning point at 65 °C and 90 °C.
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