薄型丝织物结构和性能与缝纫缩皱的关系

摘要

Thirty seven thin silk fabrics were used for seam pucker experiments. Fabric are cut in 0° as warp and 90° as weft and sawed under the same sewing condition. Physical and mechanic properties are tested by FAST instrument, while the seam shrinkage rate and seam pucker level are measured. Correlation of the seam shrinkage, seam pucker level with the physical properties, mechanic properties and structural parameters is analyzed.%探讨了薄型丝织物主客观评价与织物物理、力学性能、结构参数之间的相关性.选取37种服装生产中常用的薄型丝织物,以0°为经向、90°为纬向取试样在相同条件下缝制.通过FAST风格仪测试织物物理、力学性能,测定了织物的客观缝缩率与主观缝皱感.