THE INTEGRATION OF COSTUME AND FABRIC DESIGN TECHNOLOGY IN CHINESE MING DYNASTY (A. D. 1368 ～1644)

摘要

In ancient China, there was a much closer relationship between apparel and fabric design. The twelve emblems decorating the mien-fu (emperor's robe) represents the earliest examples of integrated fabric and garment design for a particular purpose. In those early days, patterns were painted or embroidered on the fabric, since the weaving technology was as yet not highly enough developed. By the Ming dynasty (A. D. 1368-1644), however, there are a great number of costumes handed down to us or excavated from archaeological sites, which are made up of fabrics with elaborate in-woven pattern designs, pre-arranged to suit the pre-conceived construction of splendid garments. This indicates that silk weaving technology was highly developed and prosperous in Ming dynasty. Its in-woven pattern technology of zhuanghua (brocade) had reached a high degree of development as evidenced by the ability to produce very complicated and marvelous textile designs, intended for a specific garment pattern. A considerable number of Ming period costumes from Dinglin (the tomb of emperor Shenzong), as well as contemporary archaeological excavations, feature a one-piece brocade design fabric without repeat, demonstrating the full integration of textile and clothing design. These also reflect a fashion prevailing among the high society during Ming dynasty.