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A NUMERICAL STUDY OF COARSE-GRAINED BEACH DYNAMICS

机译:粗粒海滩动力学的数值研究

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This paper investigates cross-shore profile changes of coarse-grained beaches, with particular regard to discussing the tendency for onshore transport and profile steepening in the swash zone. The discussion includes observed morphological changes on a gravel beach from experimental investigations at the Large Wave Flume (GWK) in Hanover, Germany. We investigate the profile evolution evaluating the transport rates from a bed-load sediment transport formulation coupled with velocities calculated from a set of Boussinesq equations. We discuss the influence of bottom friction on the predicted profiles and the use of non-symmetric C-values for the swash phase in the sediment transport equation. This is done to elucidate the processes that are involved in the morphological response of these beaches. Physical mechanisms believed to be important are: infiltration effects on the flow above the beachface, the more accelerated flow in the uprush and the bore collapse from a plunging breaker.
机译:本文研究了粗粒海滩的交叉岸轮廓变化,特别是讨论跨越摩擦区陡峭陡峭倾向的倾向。讨论包括观察到德国汉诺威大浪水槽(GWK)的实验研究的砾石海滩的形态变化。我们研究了从床载沉积物传输制剂中评估运输速率的轮廓演变,与来自一组Boussinesq方程计算的速度相连。我们讨论了沉积物传输方程中底部摩擦对预测曲线的影响以及对沉积物传输方程中的旋转斜率的非对称C值的使用。这样做是为了阐明参与这些海滩的形态反应的过程。认为重要的物理机制是:对海滩面上的流动的渗透效应,从挤出断路器挤出的挤压和孔隙塌陷的流动越来越加速。

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