FIELD MEASUREMENTS ON SEDIMENT TRANSPORT NEAR THE SHORELINE UNDER DEVELOPED LONG PERIOD WAVES DURING A STORM

摘要

Suspended sediment concentration, water surface elevation and horizontal velocities were measured near the shoreline during a storm, when long period waves were developed. The oscillatory component of cross-shore sediment transport rate was shoreward and had a nonnegligible contribution to the net seaward transport rate as previous studies showed. In the oscillatory component, the infragravity component with frequencies between 0.004 Hz and 0.04 Hz and the gravity component with frequencies larger than 0.04 Hz were mostly shoreward and dominant, whereas the far infragravity component with frequencies lower than 0.004 Hz was mostly seaward and small. The infragravity and gravity components of the cross-shore sediment transport rate had correlations with the acceleration asymmetry.