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MEASUREMENTS OF SHALLOW WATER BREAKING WAVE ROLLERS

机译:浅水断裂波辊的测量

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Large scale laboratory experiments concerning breaking wave propagation over a fixed-bed, barred beach were performed. The primary observations of interest were video intensity time series obtained from a set of high-resolution video cameras in order to study the onset of wave breaking in shallow water and wave roller transformation in the surf zone. The approach is new in the sense that the analysis concentrates on individual breaking waves, as opposed to the more commonly used timeexposure technique, which averages the information over wave group time scales. A new parameter of interest is derived from the video observations based on the instantaneous intensity maximum, which propagates with the roller. The parameter is shown to provide high-resolution information regarding the onset of wave breaking and the spatial evolution of the wave roller. These observations provide a new and quite rigorous test for phaseresolving shallow water wave models.
机译:对固定床,禁止海滩进行了关于破碎波传播的大规模实验室实验。感兴趣的初步观察是从一组高分辨率摄像机获得的视频强度时间序列,以研究冲浪区浅水中的波浪中的波浪中的波段发作。该方法是新的意义上,即分析集中在单个断开波上,而不是更常用的TimeeeEleT技术,其平均过波组时间尺度的信息。基于瞬时强度的最大值,从视频观测派生的新参数,它与滚轮传播。该参数被示出为提供关于波浪发作的高分辨率信息和波浪辊的空间演化。这些观察结果为倒亚过阳性浅水波模型提供了一种新的和非常严格的测试。

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