Synthesis of Sa Surface levation Functions for Shoaling Waves in Water of Gradually Varying Depth

摘要

There has been substantial interest recently in the study of oceanic processes in littoral regions. The mathematical difficulty of the analysis and desription of dynamic effects in shallow water of varying depth is disadvantage. We have developede a new computer technique to simulate the sea-surface elevation of a realistic wave field moving into shallow water over a linearly sloping bottom. The program creates a time series of wave field sealizations that approximate the real sea surface well for a wide range of conditions Hence it can provide controlled data sets for use in evaluating various analytical techniques and for other purposes in shallow-water research.