MODELLING AND MEASURING WAVES IN COASTAL WATERS

摘要

We investigate some aspects of wave-current interaction in the modelling and observations of waves and currents in the Irish Sea. The interaction of waves and currents through the surface and bottom stress, as well as refraction of waves by currents, is included in a coupled wave-current model. Long-term measurements of currents and waves, starting in November 2002, are being made in the Liverpool Bay Coastal Observatory in the Irish Sea. The large tidal range, relatively shallow depth and waves up to 5m suggest significant wave-current interactions will occur here and the measurements should provide a good test of coupled hydrodynamic-wave models. Some of the problems of getting observational data to validate or challenge these models are discussed.