LONG-TERM PREDICTION OF NEARSHORE WAVE CLIMATE WITH AN APPLICATION TO CLIFF EROSION

摘要

Nearshore wave climate determines coastal erosion and flooding, along with various other factors. The nearshore wave climate is determined by wave propagation from offshore (where water is 'deep'). Offshore wave conditions are simply defined by the wind speed and direction for this study. The nearshore wave height, period and direction is then parameterised in terms of wind climate to enable efficient long-term prediction. This is applied to various sites along the Norfolk coast in the UK and input to a model for cliff erosion SCAPE (Soft Cliff and Platform Erosion) for comparison with 117 years of historical cliff recession data. Predictions are quantitatively realistic.