A BOUNDARY ELEMENT SOLUTION APPLIED TO THE DESCRIPTION OF EXTREME WAVES IN COASTAL WATERS

摘要

This paper describes a fully nonlinear three-dimensional wave model based on the boundary element method (BEM). The model is applicd to the focusing of wave components whereby a large number of wave crests of varying frequcncy and propagating in different directions are superimposed at one point in space and time to create an extreme wave event. This process, which is commonly referred to as frequency focusing, is believed to be responsible for the formation of the largest waves and may be further strengthened by bathymetric changes. Sea states are simulated in a number of water depths and are described by realistic (JONSWAP) frequency spectra and directional spreads. To our knowledge no previous boundary clement based model has been applied to realistic wave fields of this type.