BREAKING WAVE CHARACTERISTICS BEHIND A BREAKWATER

摘要

One-line Models are used extensively to predict the long-term evolution of thernshoreline affected by coastal structures (cross-shore and parallel breakwaters andrnjetties). In order to determine the longshore sediment transport behind these structures,rnthe evaluation of the wave characteristics (wave height and wave angle) at the breakingrnpoint is needed. Since the evaluation of these wave characteristics requires the solutionrnof the combined refraction-diffraction problem, which is very time consuming, severalrnsimplified methods have been proposed to estimate the wave height and wave anglernbehind offshore structures.rnIn this paper a new methodology to determine the wave characteristics at the breakingrnpoint behind a breakwater on a uniformly sloping beach, taking into account therncombined effect of diffraction and refraction, is proposed. This methodology determines,rnin a simplified and short-run time way, the breaking wave height and breaking wavernangle to be used in a one-line Model. These results improve the estimation of existingrnmodels, especially that of the breaking wave angle.